Chile is like a giant laboratory for unstable winds. When the jet stream crosses the Pacific, it slams into the Andes at an almost perfect right angle. On the Chilean side, the climate is sunny, stable, and dry. On the Argentinean side, fierce winds rise and fall above the peaks in mountain waves, tossing up rows of thin white clouds like foamy crests. In winter, the air below the peaks can plunge into the Uco Valley, in a stifling zonda wind. The sudden compression generates terrific heat, sending temperatures above a hundred degrees in Mendoza, Argentina. “It is very psychologically difficult,” Roberto Rondanelli, an atmospheric scientist at the University of Chile, told me, when we met in Santiago. “People get crazy in Mendoza.”
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